Full Version: Savage 10FP in .308?
Has anyone here used a Savage 10FP in .308? How do you rate the gun overall? I seen one for $360 bucks. Is it a good buy for the money? How is it for accuracy? It's got a free-floated heavy 24" bbl. I don't know too much about Savage so I'm a little skeptical with the low price, but it looks like a decent setup. Any feedback would be appreciated, thanks.
Ooops!
I hope this won't turn in to one of those "tomato stake" threads...this will be interesting to see, it has been a HOT topic on many of the other boards online to say the least!
I hope this won't turn in to one of those "tomato stake" threads...this will be interesting to see, it has been a HOT topic on many of the other boards online to say the least!
I've shot one in .223 and .308, both did very well. Its a good package for the money.
Cut
Cut
When we buy Rem 700s, we remove the action from the stock (stock gets sold), remove the barrel (barrel goes in pile), true and square the action, add a new barrel and stock. You now have a $3500-$4500 gun depending on the amount of work and parts used.
When we buy a Savage we remove the action from the stock (Stock gets used as fire wood), remove the barrel (barrel gets used in the garden as plant stakes), then take the action as a door stop or paper weight. We then get a Rem 700 action, barrel, and new stock and wonder why we didn't do that to start with.
When we buy a Savage we remove the action from the stock (Stock gets used as fire wood), remove the barrel (barrel gets used in the garden as plant stakes), then take the action as a door stop or paper weight. We then get a Rem 700 action, barrel, and new stock and wonder why we didn't do that to start with.
On the 10FP Savage Tactical Rifle. I own a 10FP in 223. It is a good shooting rifle. With handloads i am getting .5 moa at 100 yards. I think the current rifles are better than the 110FP Tactical rifles. I had a 110FP in 308 and it was not very good. I could not shoot special ball ammo in it. With this ammo i could not open the bolt after firing. Also the stock was junk. Every time i fired the gun the action would ring in the stock. I replace the stock with a Bell and Carlson. This helped, but later i got rid of the rifle. As you know today they are making more aftermarket parts for the Savage. Good stocks, triggers and scope bases. I have installed a Basc-x trigger and replace the stock on my 10FP. This help out. They are good rifles for the price.
There - Thomas pretty much said it all, including the part with the "tomato stake".
As a licenced FFL dealer I see a lot of these things and YES we do sell a lot of them...for three reasons:
1) They are cheap!
2) They are accurate enough for deer!
3) They are CHEAP!
They do have a large group of "fans" who just loves them, and I am sure that there are some Savage out there that can shoot. I is just that I personally have seen SOO many more Remington 700's that shoot as well or better so...each man to his own I guess.
Have a great day!
As a licenced FFL dealer I see a lot of these things and YES we do sell a lot of them...for three reasons:
1) They are cheap!
2) They are accurate enough for deer!
3) They are CHEAP!
They do have a large group of "fans" who just loves them, and I am sure that there are some Savage out there that can shoot. I is just that I personally have seen SOO many more Remington 700's that shoot as well or better so...each man to his own I guess.
Have a great day!
How to say this. Well, time for a little heresy in the Remington world of precision tactical rifles.
First of all, let me preface my statements by saying that I own Remingtons and have a fair amount of money tied up in them. I own Winchesters too, all with the claw extractors whether actual pre-64 or the recent version. And Sako etc., etc.
They are all tools for a hobby and I have no particular brand preference. I am not a professional operator but hang out here because of knowledgeble opinions without too much angst over differing opinions.
But the Savage debate draws heat. I've had a 10FP in .308 and here is my opinion.
1. The stock ain't pretty but it still allows you to hang on to the rifle while pulling the trigger. Replacement of the stock would be second on the priority list.
2. The trigger is adaquate at best. The metal at the engagement points is a little soft so I wouldn't recommend doing too much work on it. This is number one on the replacement priority list.
Before anyone starts, I have a low opinion of the stock Remington trigger due to the floating connector. A $220 dollar Jewell trigger (hope the bad word filter allows the spelling of the trigger to stay intact) is usually the first order of business on a Remington for me. Of all the factory stock triggers I consider Winchesters design to be the best. Simple, easy to adjust and work on. The latest Remington triggers need a spring set before you can really safely do much with them and then you are still stuck with the floating connector. In my most recent Remington the trigger could not be safely adjusted down to 4 lbs, and it was rough. The factory springs have gotten ridiculously heavy despite advertising claims because of liability claims.
3. It's accurate. The one I had was a shooter. I don't know about any others but the one I had would flat shoot. The bore was rough but a few shots using the simple and cheap Midway bore firelapping kit pretty much eliminated that and improved accuracy a little. One of the things that helped accuracy was a scope that cost more than twice what the rifle did but some things don't get any cheaper and optics is one thing where there are no "bargains".
4. It will serve you well for most plinking needs and it is a cheap way to get started. For most applications you will have to spend a lot more money to really improve on it.
5. It would shoot better than about 95 percent of everyone I've ever met. Maybe more.
6. There isn't a lot of pride of ownership involved with the Savage. Most of my stuff is custom and there is some serious money involved and it all shoots. Real well.
Remingtons are easy to work on and there is a huge aftermarket in parts and accesories. Folks like Dan and Rusty and Norm (and Thomas)make exceptional customs that are bench rest accurate and rugged. The kind of tolerances and craftsmanship we are talking about here are not inexpensive, but this kind of quality rifle doesn't come cheap. Look at a Miller or Jarrett hunting rifle, same price range or more for a hunting rifle.
Generally, due to parts and gunsmithing available, Remington 1st, Winchester 2nd, Sako 3rd. Other european stuff has no aftermarket stuff available worth speaking of so if you don't like it out of the box, basically, too bad.
[This message has been edited by Rust (edited 01-16-2001).]
First of all, let me preface my statements by saying that I own Remingtons and have a fair amount of money tied up in them. I own Winchesters too, all with the claw extractors whether actual pre-64 or the recent version. And Sako etc., etc.
They are all tools for a hobby and I have no particular brand preference. I am not a professional operator but hang out here because of knowledgeble opinions without too much angst over differing opinions.
But the Savage debate draws heat. I've had a 10FP in .308 and here is my opinion.
1. The stock ain't pretty but it still allows you to hang on to the rifle while pulling the trigger. Replacement of the stock would be second on the priority list.
2. The trigger is adaquate at best. The metal at the engagement points is a little soft so I wouldn't recommend doing too much work on it. This is number one on the replacement priority list.
Before anyone starts, I have a low opinion of the stock Remington trigger due to the floating connector. A $220 dollar Jewell trigger (hope the bad word filter allows the spelling of the trigger to stay intact) is usually the first order of business on a Remington for me. Of all the factory stock triggers I consider Winchesters design to be the best. Simple, easy to adjust and work on. The latest Remington triggers need a spring set before you can really safely do much with them and then you are still stuck with the floating connector. In my most recent Remington the trigger could not be safely adjusted down to 4 lbs, and it was rough. The factory springs have gotten ridiculously heavy despite advertising claims because of liability claims.
3. It's accurate. The one I had was a shooter. I don't know about any others but the one I had would flat shoot. The bore was rough but a few shots using the simple and cheap Midway bore firelapping kit pretty much eliminated that and improved accuracy a little. One of the things that helped accuracy was a scope that cost more than twice what the rifle did but some things don't get any cheaper and optics is one thing where there are no "bargains".
4. It will serve you well for most plinking needs and it is a cheap way to get started. For most applications you will have to spend a lot more money to really improve on it.
5. It would shoot better than about 95 percent of everyone I've ever met. Maybe more.
6. There isn't a lot of pride of ownership involved with the Savage. Most of my stuff is custom and there is some serious money involved and it all shoots. Real well.
Remingtons are easy to work on and there is a huge aftermarket in parts and accesories. Folks like Dan and Rusty and Norm (and Thomas)make exceptional customs that are bench rest accurate and rugged. The kind of tolerances and craftsmanship we are talking about here are not inexpensive, but this kind of quality rifle doesn't come cheap. Look at a Miller or Jarrett hunting rifle, same price range or more for a hunting rifle.
Generally, due to parts and gunsmithing available, Remington 1st, Winchester 2nd, Sako 3rd. Other european stuff has no aftermarket stuff available worth speaking of so if you don't like it out of the box, basically, too bad.
[This message has been edited by Rust (edited 01-16-2001).]
Thomas: please tell us why you render the Savage into so many tomato stakes and door stops.
It is my understanding that Savage uses button-rifled barrels. It is further my understanding that button-rifling is a good way to get an accurate barrel, but that in order for the button to be passed through the bore, the steel must be a bit softer than is otherwise necessary. Some pros feel that this softer steel will wear more quickly, especially in the throat. Any barrel makers out there who can confirm or refute this? Best regards. Venom6 out
It is my understanding that Savage uses button-rifled barrels. It is further my understanding that button-rifling is a good way to get an accurate barrel, but that in order for the button to be passed through the bore, the steel must be a bit softer than is otherwise necessary. Some pros feel that this softer steel will wear more quickly, especially in the throat. Any barrel makers out there who can confirm or refute this? Best regards. Venom6 out
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.