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Building palm swells and such

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  • Building palm swells and such

    I have several rifles that I have added a palm swell to, or changed the angle and/or girth of the pistol grip. It's pretty easy and relatively inexpensive to do.

    If you are having trouble visualizing what you want, get some modeling clay and mock it up on your stock. That'll give you an idea.

    Once you're ready to do it for real, here's what you'll need:

    1. Coarse threaded sheetrock screws

    2. Acraglas gel from Brownell's (optional)

    3. Fasteel epoxy putty from Home Depot, or Epoxy Steel putty from Pep Boys. Same stuff, but it's nearly half the cost at Home Depot. You want the stuff that says you can drill and tap it once it hardens. It's in a clear plastic tube and it's a roll of dark and light gray putty that you mix together. It's hardens in 5-10 minutes. It's tough enough that it is commonly used to repair stripped engine mounting bolt holes.

    4. Sandpaper, starting with 60 or 80 grit and getting finer, down to about 220 grit.

    5. Standard pillar files

    6. Degreaser. I use denatured alcohol.

    How to:

    1. Take the area that you intend to modify and strip off the finish, either chemically or by sanding. Once the finish is off, if you haven't already done so rough it up with 60 or 80 grit.

    2. Drill small holes in the ara of the stock where the putty will be thickest.

    3. Run the sheetrock screws down into the holes, these will act as anchors. I coat the threads of the screws with Brownell's Acraglas gel before I run them into the stock, but this probably is not necessary.

    4. Cut the heads off of the screws, so all you have left is a threaded shaft

    5. Degrease the area where you will apply the putty.

    6. Knead your putty together. Don't do more than one tube at a time, as it hardens quickly.

    7. Apply the putty to the stock and shape. Don't worry about getting it smooth, and make sure that you make it oversized. You will be filing and sanding it into size and shape.

    8. Continue kneading and adding putty until you get it like you want

    9. Allow the putty to fully harden. I like to let it set overnight, but according to the directions this is not necessary.

    10. File and sand the putty into the size and shape that you want.

    11. Refinish the stock. See my other post here on a tough-as-nails stock finish

    I have used this to build palm swells, make grip areas more vertical and build up stock combs for better scope/sight acquisition.
    www.precision-applications.com

    It's knowing that when I get up in the morning and my feet hit the floor, the Devil says, "Shit! He's awake!"

    Shortly before World War I, the German Kaiser was the guest of the Swiss government to observe military maneuvers. The Kaiser asked a Swiss militiaman: "You are 500,000 and you shoot well, but if we attack with 1,000,000 men what will you do?" The soldier replied: "We will shoot twice and go home."

    "There are so many Russians, and our country so small, where will we find room to bury them all?" - anonymous Finnish soldier

  • #2
    I wanted to show you the pistol grip I built up for my AR useing this method. I used a standard A2 pistol grip. Thanks for sharing it with us.









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    • #3
      Nicely done.
      "Do the right thing even if it means dying like a dog when no one's there to see you do it." Vice Admiral James Stockdale, NAVY PILOT

      "Honor, Integrity, Commitment to core values. When they become abstract concepts or "ideals", all is lost." Me.

      "Character is doing the right thing, even when no one is looking." J.C. Watts

      "I have never seen a projectile turn in flight and come back at the ship that fired it, I cannot however make that same statement regarding missiles." Me.

      Deus lo vult! = "God wills it!"

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      • #4
        Thanks, now I just got to figure out where to run the screws in the stock for anchor points for the cheek weld.

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        • #5
          Nice work on the grip.

          For a raised cheekpiece, I would take a small piece of aluminum, shaped like a piece of angle iron, and attach it to the stock in as many places as possible, since you'll have to go shallow on the screws (don't wanna run one into the buffer tube!). Then, use the aluminum base as an anchor.

          Since you're going shallows, I'd use Acraglas on the screws like you would Loctite. I've done that before and it has worked great at keeping things solid.

          A small aluminum Weaver rail also might work good for this, like one of the "gunsmith" models that Weaver sells.
          www.precision-applications.com

          It's knowing that when I get up in the morning and my feet hit the floor, the Devil says, "Shit! He's awake!"

          Shortly before World War I, the German Kaiser was the guest of the Swiss government to observe military maneuvers. The Kaiser asked a Swiss militiaman: "You are 500,000 and you shoot well, but if we attack with 1,000,000 men what will you do?" The soldier replied: "We will shoot twice and go home."

          "There are so many Russians, and our country so small, where will we find room to bury them all?" - anonymous Finnish soldier

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          • #6
            Good idea, I dont know if I will do it still or not as I measured where it needs to be for my LOP and it would interfere with the charging handle, unless I left a gap in it. If I do I might see if I can get a tee nut and flatten out the prongs and curve it and fit it between the stock and buffer tube, that would provide the best anchor point I believe. Who knows, I will experement with it.

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            • #7
              Beautiful work. I think I might add these ideas into my design for my stock building project.
              Never under estimate the mindset of an engineer; if it is broke... fix it, if its not broke then it can be broke beyond any manner of repair in violent chaotic ways ( unintentionally of course .. yeah right ).

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