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Shep's M14 checklist


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  • Reading the wind
    Hey Folks,

    I wanted to post a thread for those of you that have trained here at CVT and for the ones that can't make it. This will be a review of wind reading basics. First thing is our formula: Inches X wind speed / by 1 minute of our distance. We have to have a range card that breaks our wind down to 1 mph. So that it shows us how many inches our bullet will move for every 1 mph of wind speed. Here's link to a ballistic chart you can use. You can fill in the blanks but be sure to only use 1 mph of wind speed rather than 10 mph.

    Now it should look something like this:

    Now the one on the left is for 40 degrees and under. The one on right is any over 70 degrees. Remember these are just a starting place. Now notice the column that reads 1 mph wind. Now scroll down to 600 yards. Both cards say at 600 yards your bullet will move 3" (inches) for every 1 mph of wind speed. So if we have a wind speed of 5 mph all we do is multiply 3" x 5 mph= 15" So now we know our bullet will move 15 inches in a 5 mile per hour wind at 600 yards. Now we need to change this...
    01-03-2015, 04:30 PM
  • Barrel break-in & cleaning guide
    Break-in and cleaning guide.

    Always clear the weapon and make sure it is unloaded.

    Before shooting your new rifle, ALWAYS clean the bore. There may be debris in the bore from shipping.


    • Shoot three shots and clean twice
    • Shoot 6 shots and clean once
    • Shoot 12 shots and clean
    • For the first 100 shots, clean every 25-30 rounds
    • After the first 100 rounds, clean when accuracy starts to degrade.


    Always use a good copper solvent such as Montana Xtreme 50BMG™, Spooge™, Shooters Choice™, or Sweets 7.62™. Always run three wet patches one way through, discarding each patch. This will rid your bore of carbon that can be dangerous if “scrubbed” into the bore. Run a wet brush 10 strokes and let sit. This allows the copper solvent to work. Dry patch and inspect. If copper can still be seen, run a wet patch followed by the wet brush again. When you see very little or no copper, dry patch. Then run 5 alcohol patches to clear the solvent out. DO NOT use Hoppes to do this with. IT DOES NOT WORK! You will have copper solvent ...
    01-03-2015, 04:24 PM
  • Intensive bore cleaning
    This isn't the process that I use everytime I clean a rifle. I do this process once a year on the rifles that I shoot heavily and on brand-new factory rifles before I break them in. I also recommend it for rifles that you know are heavily fouled, or are starting to lose their accuracy. It's also good for getting any moly, teflon, etc out of your bore. This process does several things. The hot water heats the factory fouling up, softening it and making it easier to remove. It also heats the barrel, opening the pores in the metal and enabling you to get it really clean. I usually do this once a year to the rifles I shoot regularly as part of my routine maintenance. If you have a rifle that is really fouled this will clean it out. I also do this with brand new rifles that have factory, "non-match" barrels. Helps get any fouling out of the barrel from the test-firing and manufacturing processes. A friend of mine bought a used, tuned PSS from a guy who complained that it wouldn’t group anymore, saying it probably needed a new barrel. I cleaned it after my friend shot...
    01-03-2015, 04:22 PM
  • Adding weight to PSS or similar stock
    If you have a chest type freezer, it's best to stick the stock in over night. I take a small thin putty knife or chisel, and using a rubber hammer, I line the blade up between the stock and the plastic spacer. Then I tap the knife with the rubber hammer. I work in small amounts, keeping it straight, and it will pop right off.

    By freezing it, the epoxy becomes hard and will break away clean.

    After you get the butt plate off, you want to get some #7 1/2 lead shot. Pour the shot in the hole in the stock. Until it's level. Then pure the shot into a old plastic cup. I use the bottom of a 2 liter pepsi bottle. I cut the bottom out.

    I get some two part epoxy, from the hardware store, the kind that works on plastics. It will have two tubes, like a syringe. I put the epoxy in the lead shot "but leave just a little for the butt plate."

    I take a popsicle stick and mix the lead and epoxy. It will set up in five minutes so work fast and get it in the stock. Pack it down into the stock and make sure it's level with the...
    01-03-2015, 04:20 PM
  • Sniper Reading List
    I've been working on and off on a list of books related to sniping. I've added all that I could find, and below is the list. I'm sure it's far from complete, so feel free to send me additions. Now, some comments about the format of the list:

    The list is broken down by categories, to hopefully make things easier to find:
    1. I've only included the title and author name(s). ISBN's change between paperback and hardcover editons, and also between First Edition, Second Edition, etc. Author & title should be all you need to find these at a bookstore, to order them from a bookstore, or to buy them online. For out of print titles, you can search on or
    2. I have not included any editorial comments on the books themselves. Some of the books are standard texts, some are ok, and some are trash (especially in the Fiction section, which is also the most incomplete). I will say the Grandfather's Tale was the most disappointing book I've read lately.
    01-03-2015, 04:19 PM
  • Shep's M14 checklist
    I use MD Labs' XF7 grease. This is the same grease that Smith Enterprise uses on the M14's they are building for the US Army. Brownell's has it:

    Here's some other tools you'll need:

    Ratcheting chamber brush:

    Rod guide/muzzle guide/bore guide: 111#13111

    or &s=462#462

    Gas piston drill:

    Gas cylinder wrench:

    Service Rifle Solvent port:

    Bolt roller greaser:

    Also, plenty of USGI mags and several...
    01-03-2015, 04:17 PM