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Basic information based on experienced shooters that you may find informative.

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  • Reading the wind

    Reading the wind

    Hey Folks,

    I wanted to post a thread for those of you that have trained here at CVT and for the ones that can't make it. This will be a review of wind reading basics. First thing is our formula: Inches X wind speed / by 1 minute of our distance. We have to have a range card that breaks our wind down to 1 mph. So that it shows us how many inches our bullet will move for every 1 mph of wind speed. Here's link to a ballistic chart you can use. You can fill in the blanks but be sure to only use 1 mph of wind speed rather than 10 mph.http://www.eskimo.com/~jbm/calculations/tr.../traj_card.html

    Now it should look something like this:




    Now the one on the left is for 40 degrees and under. The one on right is any over 70 degrees. Remember these are just a starting place. Now notice the column that reads 1 mph wind. Now scroll down to 600 yards. Both cards say at 600 yards your bullet will move 3" (inches) for every 1 mph of wind speed. So if we have a wind speed of 5 mph all we do is multiply 3" x 5 mph= 15" So now we know our bullet will move 15 inches in a 5 mile per hour wind at 600 yards. Now we need to change this...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by nate; 01-03-2015, 04:32 PM.

  • Barrel break-in & cleaning guide

    Barrel break-in & cleaning guide

    Break-in and cleaning guide.

    Always clear the weapon and make sure it is unloaded.

    Before shooting your new rifle, ALWAYS clean the bore. There may be debris in the bore from shipping.

    Break-in

    • Shoot three shots and clean twice
    • Shoot 6 shots and clean once
    • Shoot 12 shots and clean
    • For the first 100 shots, clean every 25-30 rounds
    • After the first 100 rounds, clean when accuracy starts to degrade.


    DONE.

    Cleaning
    Always use a good copper solvent such as Montana Xtreme 50BMG™, Spooge™, Shooters Choice™, or Sweets 7.62™. Always run three wet patches one way through, discarding each patch. This will rid your bore of carbon that can be dangerous if “scrubbed” into the bore. Run a wet brush 10 strokes and let sit. This allows the copper solvent to work. Dry patch and inspect. If copper can still be seen, run a wet patch followed by the wet brush again. When you see very little or no copper, dry patch. Then run 5 alcohol patches to clear the solvent out. DO NOT use Hoppes to do this with. IT DOES NOT WORK! You will have copper solvent ...
    See more | Go to post

  • Intensive bore cleaning

    Intensive bore cleaning

    This isn't the process that I use everytime I clean a rifle. I do this process once a year on the rifles that I shoot heavily and on brand-new factory rifles before I break them in. I also recommend it for rifles that you know are heavily fouled, or are starting to lose their accuracy. It's also good for getting any moly, teflon, etc out of your bore. This process does several things. The hot water heats the factory fouling up, softening it and making it easier to remove. It also heats the barrel, opening the pores in the metal and enabling you to get it really clean. I usually do this once a year to the rifles I shoot regularly as part of my routine maintenance. If you have a rifle that is really fouled this will clean it out. I also do this with brand new rifles that have factory, "non-match" barrels. Helps get any fouling out of the barrel from the test-firing and manufacturing processes. A friend of mine bought a used, tuned PSS from a guy who complained that it wouldn’t group anymore, saying it probably needed a new barrel. I cleaned it after my friend shot...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by nate; 01-03-2015, 04:23 PM. Reason: Added tags

  • Adding weight to PSS or similar stock

    Adding weight to PSS or similar stock

    If you have a chest type freezer, it's best to stick the stock in over night. I take a small thin putty knife or chisel, and using a rubber hammer, I line the blade up between the stock and the plastic spacer. Then I tap the knife with the rubber hammer. I work in small amounts, keeping it straight, and it will pop right off.

    By freezing it, the epoxy becomes hard and will break away clean.

    After you get the butt plate off, you want to get some #7 1/2 lead shot. Pour the shot in the hole in the stock. Until it's level. Then pure the shot into a old plastic cup. I use the bottom of a 2 liter pepsi bottle. I cut the bottom out.

    I get some two part epoxy, from the hardware store, the kind that works on plastics. It will have two tubes, like a syringe. I put the epoxy in the lead shot "but leave just a little for the butt plate."

    I take a popsicle stick and mix the lead and epoxy. It will set up in five minutes so work fast and get it in the stock. Pack it down into the stock and make sure it's level with the...
    See more | Go to post

  • Sniper Reading List

    Sniper Reading List

    I've been working on and off on a list of books related to sniping. I've added all that I could find, and below is the list. I'm sure it's far from complete, so feel free to send me additions. Now, some comments about the format of the list:

    The list is broken down by categories, to hopefully make things easier to find:
    1. I've only included the title and author name(s). ISBN's change between paperback and hardcover editons, and also between First Edition, Second Edition, etc. Author & title should be all you need to find these at a bookstore, to order them from a bookstore, or to buy them online. For out of print titles, you can search on http://bookfinder.com or http://abebooks.com.
    2. I have not included any editorial comments on the books themselves. Some of the books are standard texts, some are ok, and some are trash (especially in the Fiction section, which is also the most incomplete). I will say the Grandfather's Tale was the most disappointing book I've read lately.
    ...
    See more | Go to post

  • Shep's M14 checklist

    Shep's M14 checklist

    I use MD Labs' XF7 grease. This is the same grease that Smith Enterprise uses on the M14's they are building for the US Army. Brownell's has it:

    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...l.aspx?p=22126

    Here's some other tools you'll need:

    Ratcheting chamber brush:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...SH&s=4355#4355

    Rod guide/muzzle guide/bore guide:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...=13 111#13111

    or

    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...DE &s=462#462

    Gas piston drill:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...ES&s=1158#1158

    Gas cylinder wrench:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...ES&s=1161#1161

    Service Rifle Solvent port:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...&s=45700#45700

    Bolt roller greaser:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...ES&s=5312#5312

    Also, plenty of USGI mags and several...
    See more | Go to post

  • Shep's handlapping technique

    Shep's handlapping technique

    A note on handlapping - a "standard" factory barrel (like that in the PSS and most standard, factory production line manufactured rifles) can sometimes benefit from handlapping.

    DO NOT handlap a "custom" barrel (Lothar Walther, Spenser, Schneider, Hart, Lilja, Krieger, Douglas, etc). They were professionally handlapped by a guy who does nothing but lapping for a living, before they left the factory. You'll only screw it up.

    When handlapping a PSS, I use:
    • JB Bore Compound
    • Coated rod (Dewey, Bore Tech, etc)
    • VFG Bore Pellets. I get 'em from Brownell's, they are felt pellets that screw onto a special threaded jag. If you're not going to use these, use good quality patches and an undersized bore brush. For instance, in a .30 caliber rifle I will use a .284/7mm bore brush. You are going to use the bore brush as a jag to work the patch with, so you want a good, tight fit but not so tight that you can't work it.
    • Bore guide

    1. Start out by giving your barrel a good cleaning to insure
    ...
    See more | Go to post

  • Dry firing

    Dry firing

    Hey Folks,

    I can't begin to tell you how important dry practice is. If done correctly your skill level will go through the roof! To tell the truth it's perfect practice. Why? Well, lets see......no wind, no recoil, no rain, no ammo, no conditions at all! That makes it perfect practice.

    Here's how you should IMHO start: Find a place away from your gun room where you can lay down (if using your rifle) and see outside. Place all your ammo in your gun room well away from your practice area. Make sure your weapon is not loaded. If using your pistol make sure you place a target in an area that could take a round safely if an accident occurred. (that's why I prefer practicing somewhere not close to the gun room.)

    If using your rifle, find a place comfortable, using your bipod and rear bag place the weapon to where you can see outside. Bring the rifle back into your shoulder fairly tight (not to the point where your shaking) and get a good solid cheek weld. Find a target like a knot hole in a tree, nail head in a fence something again that has...
    See more | Go to post

  • Scope Ring Lapping

    Scope Ring Lapping

    First, mount up your scope base and the bottom half of the rings.

    There is a bit of disagreement as to whether or not you need to lap the top halves of the rings as well as the bottoms. Personally, I lap the tops and bottoms. My theory is that if there is a flaw in the top halves, it could still cause problems when I tighten the scope up in my freshly lapped bottoms. Plus, if done correctly, it won't hurt anything, so why not do it.
    1. Apply the lapping compound to the lap and the bottom halves of the rings.

    2. Install the top halves of the rings. I make sure that I have an even gap on both sides between the tops and bottoms of the rings. I want to snug the tops down enough that I can just work the lap.
    You'll want to mark the top halves of the rings so that if you ever take them off, you can get them back on exactly as they were. You'll want to keep them not only as front and rear, but also keep them oriented in the same manner (i.e., the front of the front, the front of the back). I do this by filing 1 small...
    See more | Go to post

  • Easy, Accurate, Scope Height Alignment

    Easy, Accurate, Scope Height Alignment

    Here is an easy, accurate method for scope height measurement:
    1. Mount your base to the rifle.
    2. Stack washers (or pennies, nickels, quarters, etc) in even stacks on the mount about where your rings would go. Build the stacks up until you get the scope at the ideal height that you want.
    3. Take one of the washer stacks and measure the height (preferrably with calipers).
    You will now have your ideal saddle height (top of the base to the bottom of the scope body or tube). In the accompanying photo, that is height "B".

    You will want to purchase a set of rings with a "B" height as close as possible to what you measured from your stack of washers


    When purchasing your rings, if they sold using height "A" (top of base to center of ring) then you will need to:
    • Add .5" to your washer measurements if you have a 1" scope tube
    • Add .59055" to your washer measurements if you have a 30mm tube
    • Add .66929" to your washer
    ...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by nate; 01-03-2015, 04:35 PM.
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  • Reading the wind
    nate
    Hey Folks,

    I wanted to post a thread for those of you that have trained here at CVT and for the ones that can't make it. This will be a review of wind reading basics. First thing is our formula: Inches X wind speed / by 1 minute of our distance. We have to have a range card that breaks our wind down to 1 mph. So that it shows us how many inches our bullet will move for every 1 mph of wind speed. Here's link to a ballistic chart you can use. You can fill in the blanks but be sure to only use 1 mph of wind speed rather than 10 mph.http://www.eskimo.com/~jbm/calculations/tr.../traj_card.html

    Now it should look something like this:




    Now the one on the left is for 40 degrees and under. The one on right is any over 70 degrees. Remember these are just a starting place. Now notice the column that reads 1 mph wind. Now scroll down to 600 yards. Both cards say at 600 yards your bullet will move 3" (inches) for every 1 mph of wind speed. So if we have a wind speed of 5 mph all we do is multiply 3" x 5 mph= 15" So now we know our bullet will move 15 inches in a 5 mile per hour wind at 600 yards. Now we need to change this...
    01-03-2015, 04:30 PM
  • Barrel break-in & cleaning guide
    nate
    Break-in and cleaning guide.

    Always clear the weapon and make sure it is unloaded.

    Before shooting your new rifle, ALWAYS clean the bore. There may be debris in the bore from shipping.

    Break-in

    • Shoot three shots and clean twice
    • Shoot 6 shots and clean once
    • Shoot 12 shots and clean
    • For the first 100 shots, clean every 25-30 rounds
    • After the first 100 rounds, clean when accuracy starts to degrade.


    DONE.

    Cleaning
    Always use a good copper solvent such as Montana Xtreme 50BMG™, Spooge™, Shooters Choice™, or Sweets 7.62™. Always run three wet patches one way through, discarding each patch. This will rid your bore of carbon that can be dangerous if “scrubbed” into the bore. Run a wet brush 10 strokes and let sit. This allows the copper solvent to work. Dry patch and inspect. If copper can still be seen, run a wet patch followed by the wet brush again. When you see very little or no copper, dry patch. Then run 5 alcohol patches to clear the solvent out. DO NOT use Hoppes to do this with. IT DOES NOT WORK! You will have copper solvent ...
    01-03-2015, 04:24 PM
  • Intensive bore cleaning
    nate
    This isn't the process that I use everytime I clean a rifle. I do this process once a year on the rifles that I shoot heavily and on brand-new factory rifles before I break them in. I also recommend it for rifles that you know are heavily fouled, or are starting to lose their accuracy. It's also good for getting any moly, teflon, etc out of your bore. This process does several things. The hot water heats the factory fouling up, softening it and making it easier to remove. It also heats the barrel, opening the pores in the metal and enabling you to get it really clean. I usually do this once a year to the rifles I shoot regularly as part of my routine maintenance. If you have a rifle that is really fouled this will clean it out. I also do this with brand new rifles that have factory, "non-match" barrels. Helps get any fouling out of the barrel from the test-firing and manufacturing processes. A friend of mine bought a used, tuned PSS from a guy who complained that it wouldn’t group anymore, saying it probably needed a new barrel. I cleaned it after my friend shot...
    01-03-2015, 04:22 PM
  • Adding weight to PSS or similar stock
    nate
    If you have a chest type freezer, it's best to stick the stock in over night. I take a small thin putty knife or chisel, and using a rubber hammer, I line the blade up between the stock and the plastic spacer. Then I tap the knife with the rubber hammer. I work in small amounts, keeping it straight, and it will pop right off.

    By freezing it, the epoxy becomes hard and will break away clean.

    After you get the butt plate off, you want to get some #7 1/2 lead shot. Pour the shot in the hole in the stock. Until it's level. Then pure the shot into a old plastic cup. I use the bottom of a 2 liter pepsi bottle. I cut the bottom out.

    I get some two part epoxy, from the hardware store, the kind that works on plastics. It will have two tubes, like a syringe. I put the epoxy in the lead shot "but leave just a little for the butt plate."

    I take a popsicle stick and mix the lead and epoxy. It will set up in five minutes so work fast and get it in the stock. Pack it down into the stock and make sure it's level with the...
    01-03-2015, 04:20 PM
  • Sniper Reading List
    nate
    I've been working on and off on a list of books related to sniping. I've added all that I could find, and below is the list. I'm sure it's far from complete, so feel free to send me additions. Now, some comments about the format of the list:

    The list is broken down by categories, to hopefully make things easier to find:
    1. I've only included the title and author name(s). ISBN's change between paperback and hardcover editons, and also between First Edition, Second Edition, etc. Author & title should be all you need to find these at a bookstore, to order them from a bookstore, or to buy them online. For out of print titles, you can search on http://bookfinder.com or http://abebooks.com.
    2. I have not included any editorial comments on the books themselves. Some of the books are standard texts, some are ok, and some are trash (especially in the Fiction section, which is also the most incomplete). I will say the Grandfather's Tale was the most disappointing book I've read lately.
    ...
    01-03-2015, 04:19 PM
  • Shep's M14 checklist
    nate
    I use MD Labs' XF7 grease. This is the same grease that Smith Enterprise uses on the M14's they are building for the US Army. Brownell's has it:

    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...l.aspx?p=22126

    Here's some other tools you'll need:

    Ratcheting chamber brush:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...SH&s=4355#4355

    Rod guide/muzzle guide/bore guide:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...=13 111#13111

    or

    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...DE &s=462#462

    Gas piston drill:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...ES&s=1158#1158

    Gas cylinder wrench:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...ES&s=1161#1161

    Service Rifle Solvent port:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...&s=45700#45700

    Bolt roller greaser:
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...ES&s=5312#5312

    Also, plenty of USGI mags and several...
    01-03-2015, 04:17 PM
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